Japanese Fashion Designers

We were set a task to find an article about an interest of ours in the journal section of the library. Because I had little knowledge of the Journal section of the Library, I though I would ask one of the women at the desk for advice. 9780857853134She helped me use MetSearch to find Journals about fashion which is what I wanted in the first place however, I was looking in issues of Vogue which I didn’t really understand. Whilst online I came across this book looking at Japanese fashion designers which immediately I was drawn to the front cover of pleated see threw layers of a jacket. I have found it online in the library and am waiting to collect it but the online content gives me many designers of which some I have already looked at but others I have never heard of which are of interest to me. Including Dai Fujiwara.

Fujiwara graduated from Tama Art University, Tokyo in textile design and joined the Miyake Design Studio as a member of the Paris collection staff. He started work with Miyake on a project called A-POC (A piece of cloth) in 1998 and received several awards. He was also appointed Creative Director of Issey Miyake collections in 2006.

But my favoirte work of his is the autumn/winter collection of 2009 with these beautiful light as a feather pieces. As written on Vogue it says that Miyake was a poet and that these final outfits were evoked by the poetry of the master.

 

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Reach and Development- Second Brief Continued

Here is my current book work, with new influences. After speaking with Kiereine on a weekly basis and getting influences from both her and Irene, I have found it very hard to make this project relevant and seem ongoing. I know when I get home I want to re create this project with a different brief and very different outcomes. But making a garment for this project within the time frame I have found very challenging. I have recently discovered new artists on Vogue that I have found very influential in my work, which has helped me to create elements of my final piece. However, I am not sure if you will understand were my ideas have come from in my book, this is because I have felt very limited with resources. Take a look at these new artists:

Viktoria Tisza

Viktoria Tisza is a Budapest based fashion designer. She launched her brand in 2012, mainly focusing on women’s swim wear. She applies exciting fabrics and designs pure forms with some futuristic ideas. In her latest collections she has been experimenting with new technologies and created moulded pieced of silicone rubber, a versatile material, that supports her sci-fi ambience concepts.

I found Inspiration in her work because of the unique fabrics and textures used. I love her designs as it borders on the edge of nudity, which I find interesting, with detail to surface pattern shapes/textures, shoulder shapes and interesting skirt shapes. I think these are very unique which I like a lot.

Junya Wantanabe

Wantanabe was born in Japan in 1961, He graduated from Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion Institute in 1984. He immediately joined Comme des Garcons, the company run by Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo. In 1992, he started showing his own collection under the Comme des Garcons label, and since then his individuality has become his trademark. He has a very futuristic style, giving his clothes an irregular touch through random tucking and pleating, or rushing.

I was really inspired by the interesting surface patterns here and shapes, because they were slightly crazy. And I found inspiration in the fabrics, using mesh and other like fabrics. After seeing inspiration of pleats here and looking at architecture I decided I want to try this for myself. However, with little access to internet sights, or books. I have decided to wait till I get home and complete work experience to get more in depth knowledge of this technique.

Clio Sage

Clio Sage is a graduate from Barnards College in Columbia. She majored in architecture but applies her technical training to artistic mediums. Her latest and now primary focus has been using her architectural background as a point of influence for her fashion design, building clothes out of unconventional apparel materials through laser cut and hand work.

I was really inspired by her influence of Architecture and Unconventional fabrics and methods of constructing clothes that could be perhaps something else. I thought the idea was interesting and reminded me of the recent work of Issey Miyake, which I love.

Nior Kei Ninomiya

During his younger years, he studied French Literature, before deciding he wanted to become a fashion designer.  He then moved to studied at the Royal Art academy, before moving to Belgium. Later he was offered the opportunity to work as a pattern cutter at Rei Kawakubo’s  Comme des Garcons. He was able to interact with Kawakubo, allowing him to develop personal creations.

I was really inspired by his unusual surface patterns, and in particular the constructions including pleats and caged constructions. Which I thought worked well with the trending forecasting, but the construction itself was interesting which why it was influential to my work.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake is a Japanese fashion designer and fragrance connoisseur. He is known for his technology driven clothing designs. He was a graphic design student at Tama Art University. He questioned why clothing design was not included in the programme and started focusing on the design instead of fashion. In 1988 Miyake created a new technique called Garment Pleating which led to a clothing line called Pleats Please in 1993. Here are images of his new collection called BAOBAO, created for winter 2016.

I am really inspired by his use of pleats in his old and new fashion designs, but in particular, really like this new style of bag created. I love how the light reflects of each triangle piece making it stand out weather its metallic, shiny or matt. I think this idea is interesting.

After seeing all these artists interesting designs for Spring/Summer 2017, I became inspired and started drawing interesting designs for my final piece, with particular interest in using unusual fabrics. After learning how to draw the body in different ways in my drawing class, my focus slowly drifted to looking at how to capture the body in different ways threw clothes, which is where I began looking at transparent fabrics to cover the body but not show the shape. I was inspired by fashion worn by Twiggy in the 60’s with the high neck line and tent shape, which did not outline the body shape, and I thought this was a clever idea to use this shape with the transparent fabrics.

After messing about with some plastic, I decided to go ahead and attempt to make a clean cut plastic skater skirt because this was what I knew how to make. I choose orange and yellow for the colours because yellow was one of the main colours of my forecasted colour pallet, and I choose the orange as a contract, because out of all the plastics, this one worked the best and specifically because when you cut into both the yellow and orange the edges glow, which I think gives it that space age 60’s vibe, which was my theme.

I chose to add zips and pin pricks into the fabric to give the garment more interaction and depth. I loved the stitches as this helped to open the seams, and gave it more of a glow, which I loved. The zips were for decoration, because with my lack of resources and my knowledge of how to apply a zip, I thought it would make the garment slightly more interesting.  During my first lesson making I half completed my skirt. And hope in my final lesson to make goggles to go with this as an interesting accessory.

Aldwych- London Unused Tube Station

Today I was lucky enough to go on a Brit Movie tour of this very old unused tube station. I have always been interested in abandoned buildings and London transport services, so to be able to visit an unused tube station was really interesting to me. IMG_8644.jpg

Here is some of the history of the tube station:

The tube station was built in 1895 for theatre goers, but weirdly enough actually knocked down Strand theatre to build the station. It was originally built with enough space for six lift shafts. However two were completed and only one was ever used. Inside the entrance hall they had a shop and photo booth. The tiles that were in the entrance hall were metric, and before it became a listed building the tiles were changed to a lime green colour.

People entered and exited the building the same way because the station was never finished.

 

Within the lift, the operator would sell tickets. These days people would sit and wait in the lift for the train to leave holborn at which case the bell would ring in the lift and and lift operator would lower the lift onto the platform so that people were not waiting on the platform.

During  world war 2, the government did not want people coming into the tube stations to take cover as they thought it was unsafe. Eventually they put in medical facilities and toilets in order for people to be safe. They closed down stations during this time and put hammocks within the tracks so that people could shelter from the war.

On the first platform was a 1972 final stock train from the piccadilly line. This line was now used mostly for training for staff of London transport. The line still is live however, many films have used this station to film at, so can be closed for this. IMG_8636

This platform was last used by the public in 1914 and closed eventually in 1917. Almost 100 years since its been used properly and still looks in good condition.

The second platform was never finished, however during the war, was used to store crockery and paintings by the royal family. They also tested different tile patterns on the second line which are now used on the Bakerloo line at Piccadilly Circus.

I think the history of this station is very interesting. Although it was once used it has not been used for 100 years now. And because it is a listed building it cannot be touched or edited in anyway. Which I think is lovely to have the building and tiles in original condition. Posters from the period still are in the station which shows how much things have changed. I feel so lucky to have been able to see this.

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New Designers London 2016

While visiting the new designers event in London, I found some specific graduates thats work really inspired me. Due to there theme, processes and final pieces. Take a look:

This was my favourite new designer of the event. Her name is Shiona McMahon and she attended the University of Dundee. Instantly I was drawn to the rust dying, colours and textures. Before even seeing the screws I could see the patterns of rust dying. She said she has a passion for natural dying techniques. Her collection aims to show how versatile the processes can be and hopes to sell her work to commercial interior markets. I loved how beautiful and unique each piece was, especially with hand stitches.

Click here for more Information and Instagram Account.

 

This is another piece of work I particularly liked, by Rebakah Garthwaite who studied at the Birmingham City University. During the project she was inspired by ice and had a passion for embroidery and embellishment. I was drawn to the sketch book at colour palette most of all because of how the book was laid out to show all the pages, but also because the sketch book was used to demonstrate her though processes, and samples, which I hope to go back to during the second and third year of University.  Her final peices included over 10,000 beads which were hand stitched onto fabric. and different embroidery methods to show the transformation of ice. Although i’m not the biggest fan of embroidery, I was really impressed with this piece.

Click here for more Information and Instagram account.

 

I also collected many business cards throughout the day. When I go into third year, I assume I will also make business cards but looking at all the different types has given me lots to think about, including colour, textures, shapes, cut out shapes and hand made elements. Each card is different, but the ones that stood out to me were the ones that were hand made with there names printed on top, or thin clear plastic cards with shapes cut out. This idea would be good because it could make a keyring. However, Rachael Larsson, who used the plastic business cards was creating all her work out of plastic so it made so much sense. Obviously this day has given me an insight into what I will be doing in 2 years time, and I look forward to it. But with the time leading up to this point I hope to have looked into these things throughly.

 

 

 

 

Do Ho Suh

He was born in Korea and received a BFA in painting from the Rhode Island School of Design. He also completed a MFA in sculpture from the University of Yale. He is interested in malleability of space in both its physical and metaphorical manifestations. His work explores the relationship between the individuality, collectivity and anonymity.

 

Artist found in the book called; ‘The Fashion of Architecture’ By Bradley Quinn, p134.

 

 

Keireine Canavan

Today we had a talk from our head lecturer Keireine Canavan, about her life as an artists, and what she is currently doing in her field. Both her parents were fine artists and met at Ruskin School of Art and Design at Oxford University. She studied her art foundation course at coventry where she discover her love of textiles. She received a place at Liverpool university to study weave, woven design and fashion. She then went on to complete her masters at the royal college of art in London to study Knitting. At this time, the college only accepted three students for each course, so this was a massive achievement.

During her second year of masters she worked for Massoni but after finishing her masters, she decided to wanted to start her own business. She moved to Plymouth and had her own store where she created knit wear. After 5 years and have three children she decided to move back to London.

After this she then decided to go back to school and study a masters at SCOT, in Scotland to study using CADCAM (computer aided design, computer aided technology).

Since 2003 she has been very interested in the Al-Sadu weaving project. This is a method of weaving within Kuwait. She also loves camels.
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St. Athens Boys Village

Today I travelled to St. Athens Boys Village, after researching about the place online and finding out it was relatively close to where I live I decided to take the trip to see what the place was like and perhaps find out the history of the place.

I discoved the sight on 28 days later, an online meeting place for urban explorers. Having seen photos of it, it a reasonable condition i was expecting much more, but when i got there the place was in ruins. Graffiti artists and arsonists have been about and its quite upsetting really. But from my perspective I got some wonderful photographs of textures and old wallpapers.

This is a link contains some of the history of the sight, it also shows some of the images that were taken of the place from 2009. Considering the time difference the place has changed drastically. 28DaysLaterPost.

These images I’ve taken of the wallpaper remind me a lot of photographs from the work of  Stephen Wilkes who took photographs of Ellis Island of the coast of New York. and also photographers Daniel Barter and Daniel Marbaix who toured around America and took this photograph in an asylum in New Jersey.